Thursday, April 8, 2010

San Francisco - Part I

2009-07-29: As is to be expected in San Francisco, the day began with a cool fog and grey skies. Since I took a liking to that city, I wanted to do something there before returning to the wild lands. A nice compromise then, would be San Francisco's Japanese Tea Garden. This was a place where every single thing has had its aesthetic qualities considered, and was then positioned accordingly.

Friday, March 19, 2010

Travel Notes: Kuchel Visitor Centre » San Francisco, CA

2009-07-28: The coastal highway was tempting, but I decided to go inland after seeing a sign that pointed to the "Avenue of the Giants". This highway is a high-speed, winding road built right through the redwood forest. The trees are literally right next to the road. Driving quickly through a forest of giant trees was an odd sensation; I have always been used to taking the forest paths by foot.
 
Traffic through here was surprisingly heavy. I wanted to get some photos but there were few places to pull over, and those were easily missed or were already full of vehicles. Here is one from someone else.

Outside of the forests, the terrain was notably home to many dry riverbeds (such as that of the Eel River) and sun-drenched hillside vineyards. The temperature continued to climb as I made my way through the hills, toward San Francisco. By early afternoon, I was seeing a temperature of 105°F, though it would fall as I approached the bay.
 
I made it to the outer San Francisco area at the absolute height of rush hour. Navigating was chaotic and confusing, and I accidentally ended up in Oakland after crossing a large bridge (possibly the Richmond - San Rafael Bridge). So I had to go back, and I spent quite a long time trying to find a recreation area by its address in the hills around Sausalito and Mill Valley. I was going in circles for some time, and since evening was approaching, I headed for San Francisco, in particular Fisherman's Wharf. My parents had recommended a restaurant there, called Scoma's, and I wished to stop in. There I had the freshest seafood I had ever enjoyed. When I got back onto the street, the shops were beginning to close up. I took some photos and took a drive around the city.

San Francisco does not feel like any city I have ever been to. Although it is big, it does not have the big city feel to it. I never felt the need to be particularly cautious or aware of those around me. The streets were busy, but seemingly only with happy people enjoying themselves, not scowling businesspeople or random shady characters. It seems very welcoming.

I was shocked at the sorts of slopes that houses and roads had been built on. The grade was extreme in places. I was thinking I would be nervous to drive on them in rain or snow.

I knew that unfortunately staying anywhere in SF would not be economical, so I crossed the Bay Bridge and headed out about 20 miles, searching for a rest stop in a decent area, but I couldn't find anything. I believe I turned around at Castro Valley, on Foothill Road. I found a nice visitor's centre parking area on the south side of the Golden Gate Bridge, and there I spent the night.

Kuchel Visitor Centre

2009-07-28: A few short minutes of driving led me back to the Kuchel Visitor Centre, where I took a brief stroll on the boardwalk around the coastal marsh.

Sunday, January 31, 2010

Redwood National Park - Lady Bird Johnson Grove - Part II



Redwood National Park - Lady Bird Johnson Grove - Part I

2009-07-28: I quickly broke camp and hurried through the heights to Lady Bird Johnson Grove, high above the foggy coastal lowlands. The trail was an easy one mile loop, which nonetheless allowed me to experience the remarkable beauty of the coastal redwood forests. I arrived early enough to enjoy the tranquillity and solitude not possible with the presence of the tourist types. Fog still lingered in the darker places the sunlight had yet to reach.

Admittedly, I was not certain that I would be much impressed by the trees here, as Olympic National Forest would be hard to outdo. I thought, surely the trees could not be that much bigger - after a certain point it would not be noticeable. But the redwoods seemed impossibly tall. Something that huge - alive?

I found an overlook by taking the road to the higher elevations. A rare heat wave was blasting the region and it was here that I felt the beginning of its full force. Though it was morning, the temperature approached 90 degrees. Something, which I suspect may have been the trees, was releasing an incredibly strong odour into the air; slightly sweet like ripe fruit, and sharp like an evergreen. It was not quite nauseating, but it was overpowering.

Monday, January 25, 2010

Redwood National Park - Elk Prairie Campground

2009-07-28: I missed the campground by a few miles since my GPS directed me to the Kuchel Visitor Centre. I had no problem with that, as I was able to gather informational material and facts regarding the redwood forests. California has so much to do, whatever you might be interested in. I hoped preparation would make it all manageable. The visitor centre was built near a marshy lagoon on the coast. I planned to return the next day on the way to San Francisco. I went back to the campground, set up camp, and made certain that everything was bear resistant. Many animals were present there, obviously accustomed to the presence of humans. Deer and elk wandered through the meadows, and Steller's jays waited for food to be dropped or left alone. I spent the evening relaxing, keeping off of my still sore feet. The next day, I discovered a blackberry bush near my campsite, and I had recall the park rule specifically saying consumption of berries is permitted. The berries were about the size of a ping-pong ball. They were plentiful, and sweet.

Travel Notes: Beachside SRA » Redwood National Park, CA

2009-07-27: The fog from the previous day was partially gone, for a short time at least, and I was able to view the azure waters of the Pacific Ocean before leaving Beachside SRA. Unfortunately, it quickly returned once I was back on the road. My feet hadn't recovered yet, so driving was the only activity I could choose today. I took advantage of the few places where the fog was not present and where there was room to stop, and I took photos or just enjoyed the view.

Beachside State Recreaction Area, OR

2009-07-26: Along the coastal highway, the dense fog obscured any view of the ocean, though visibility on the ridge upon which the road sat was decent. I set up camp and limped to the showers as quickly as possible, thinking even a cold shower in a small stall would be a relief. Rather than that, it was warm and larger than many I'd seen elsewhere. The late afternoon sunlight diffused through the fog to create an evenly lit environment in which the passage of time was difficult to gauge.

I descended the sandy path to the beach, and there I gazed upon what appeared to be a place of infinite greyness, while somewhere, which seemed neither near or far, the ocean's waves ground against the shore, their crashing seemingly diminished by the grey clouds. This was the only audible sound. Shadowy silhouettes of other beach goers seemed to materialise out of the fog, only to disappear shortly afterwards.

Travel Notes: Somewhere east of Aberdeen, WA » Beachside SRA, OR

I left Washington a bit later than I had planned as I was quite exhausted from yesterday's grueling hike through that ancient forest. The distance I had travelled last night put me ahead of schedule, so I decided to set a course for Oregon's central coast - Beachside State Recreation area would be my destination. I was anticipating finally being able to get a proper view of the Pacific Ocean. I passed through Portland before going west, but I did not get much of an impression of the city. I might have stopped under different circumstances, but my feet were in no condition for a stroll though the city.

Friday, October 16, 2009

Olympic National Park - Part III





2009-07-25: This is Part III of the photos from Olympic National Park. The last one is where I felt I was being watched.

Olympic National Park - Part II




2009-07-25: This is Part II of the photos from Olympic National Park.

Olympic National Park - Part I



2009-07-25: The Olympic rain forest was everything I had expected, and then some. The trees here, regardless of species, grow to tremendous size. Everywhere where something could grow, it did. I encountered trees growing out of other trees; in one instance a sapling was growing straight up out of a stump. Many trees had hollows underneath them where the tree they grew on top of had lain before rotting away. Mushrooms and moss grew upon the trees. Ferns and other small plants claimed any remaining open soil. The air here was slightly cool and damp - it would cool dramatically at night. The scent of the trees and the earth was very thick. Many parts of the forest were quite dark. The trail I took followed a clear and cool river. I walked quite a distance on this trail - 7.5 miles, and then back another 7.5. Unfortunately, I wore through the pads in my boots and ended up with some very painful blisters on my soles. Oddly enough, in one particular part of the forest trail, otherwise unremarkable, I had a strong feeling that I was being watched. I continued on, watching and listening for movement. Nothing came of it, but when I was on the return hike, I felt the same sensation. How strange!

Later, in the evening, the temperature dropped dramatically. I was exhausted and the cold may have been less tolerable because of that. While driving, I caught a glimpse of a cloud of fog pouring rapidly down the side of a mountain and looking like an enormous plume from a melting block of dry ice. Soon the thick fog filled the air, and was present until I had come out of the high mountains. Along some parts of the highway, the huge trees of the rain forest lined both sides of the road, creating the appearance of a gargantuan hall lined by massive pillars. At one point, a great horned owl swooped across the road in front of my car, its wingspan six feet wide, or possibly more. I stopped to capture some photos of a brilliant sunset. That night, again behind schedule, I had to find somewhere to stop and sleep. The city of Aberdeen, WA looked much like Chicago in many ways - not somewhere I wanted to stay. So as before, I found a rest stop to park at and there I slept.

Travel Notes: Port Townsend » Olympic National Park, WA

I was very much anticipating my visit to Olympic National Park. Kanaskat-Palmer State Park had certainly given me a preview of what I was about to experience. Olympic is a very large park, and I noticed several different areas could be accessed. I was not planning to camp here, so any of them were valid. I stopped at a tourist information center in some random small town and grabbed a vacation guide. I decided that Hoh Rain Forest would be the best place to go.

The hills and rivers of Washington were on a smaller scale than I might have expected along this route, though they were many. Small lavender farms could be seen along the road, though none were photo-worthy in my opinion. It looks like one had to stop and pay for a guided tour to get anything good.

Nairn Falls Provincial Park » Port Townsend, WA

2009-07-24: On this morning, all of southern British Columbia were enveloped in fog. My goal was to reach a park on the coast of Washington. I drove with leisure as the distance was not too great. Unfortunately, the ferry crossing the Strait of Juan de Fuca had been delayed by an hour or more earlier on, so the entire schedule was off. I had missed the most recent by a matter of minutes and had to wait about another ninety minutes for the next one to arrive. By the time I had crossed, I was too tired to drive and I had to stop and sleep. Though it was all too mundane, a 24-hour grocery store's parking lot was my stopping place.

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Nairn Falls Provincial Park

2009-07-23: Canada's Sea to Sky Highway had a uniquely wild look to it. As I drove along it, following the winding road back and forth, going up and down the hills, black storms thundered across the region. I looked up at a high, rocky precipice and saw a bolt of lightning viciously strike a tree. Smaller rocks tumbled down the slope. It seems that it is a constantly changing landscape. Chinook helicopters, some with buckets attached, constantly flew overhead. CBC radio reported that firefighters had been battling a massive wildfire; luckily it was not a threat to the area I was in. I watched one of the helicopters dip a bucket into a lake and fly away over the mountains. About 50 miles north of Vancouver, I found a small provincial park called Nairn Falls, and decided it would be a good place to camp. I walked along a noisy, cold and fast river to visit the falls here. Minerals dissolved in the river gave it an odd, milky appearance. The forest trail opened up into an area of solid rock, which had to be climbed to get to the viewpoint for the falls. I made my way forward and took a few photos, taking care not to slip on the smooth rock. The drinking water here was excellent; I enjoyed it so much that I dumped out what I had and filled up my bottles with it.