New Orleans, LA

2009-08-14: I still had no real plan so I decided to go to New Orleans, as there would surely be things to do and see. Indeed, as it was Friday. I was driving literally on top of a levee after leaving the park on a road that may or may not have had a name. From there I had access to I-10. I-10 was elevated above the Atchafalaya Swamp and went on for nearly 20 miles. Looking over the side, swampland stretched to the horizon. Perfect blue skies were mirrored by the gently flowing waters below, and vegetation, so vivid in its verdancy, broke apart the reflection wherever the waterways were sufficiently shallow.

I-10 passed through Baton Rouge, or more accurately, seemed to bypass the capital. I cannot say I saw anything of note in that area, aside from a long bridge over the Mississippi River. The highway then passed over parts of Lake Pontchartrain, elevated just above the water. I was unfamiliar with the layout of New Orleans, and this was a pleasant surprise.

I arrived in New Orleans in the early afternoon. This was good, as I could explore the French Quarter before the madness began. As was to be expected, parking was difficult to find, although I managed to get an introductory tour to the area with so much driving around. Much of this area was thankfully closed to vehicle traffic.

The architecture was well preserved and quite elegant, if worn a bit from time as well as Hurricane Katrina. Buildings were colorful and what grounds they had were well maintained. It retained its historic essence as well, I believe. It was a fusion of many cultures. It felt old, broken in, and just a bit mysterious. One peek through a gate or into an alley could reveal a fountain, courtyard, or statue of some sort. I thought that I could expect to find just about anything here.

I stopped at one of the myriad restaurants for some quick and mostly authentic local favorites, including red beans and rice, jambalaya, gumbo, and little local beer and wine, which you could take with you onto the street!

As the evening approached, I'd walked around as much as I'd wanted to, photographing interesting things when I remembered, as there was just so much to see. And that's when the party began. Just like the bayou, New Orleans comes alive as the evening approaches. Revelers of all types appeared in the streets, and as the alcohol began to flow, promoters tempted them with entertainment of the more risqué sort. I would have liked to stay for the party, but I hadn't planned where I'd be camping so I had to move on. I made my way back to me Jeep and the strange quietude of the neighborhood had returned.

I left the French Quarter and set out to find a place to check my maps and make plans. As I rounded the nearby city blocks, I witnessed what Hurricane Katrina had done. Entire skyscrapers appeared abandoned, and residential areas had fared poorly as well. Though the French Quarter had been repaired, there was much to do yet.

I found a quiet and stunningly beautiful cemetery which gave me the peace I needed to prepare my next steps. I decided I'd go to Grand Isle, and return to the gulf.