Redwood National Park - Lady Bird Johnson Grove - Part II

Redwood National Park - Lady Bird Johnson Grove - Part I

2009-07-28: I quickly broke camp and hurried through the heights to Lady Bird Johnson Grove, high above the foggy coastal lowlands. The trail was an easy one mile loop, which nonetheless allowed me to experience the remarkable beauty of the coastal redwood forests. I arrived early enough to enjoy the tranquillity and solitude not possible with the presence of the tourist types. Fog still lingered in the darker places the sunlight had yet to reach.

Admittedly, I was not certain that I would be much impressed by the trees here, as Olympic National Forest would be hard to outdo. I thought, surely the trees could not be that much bigger - after a certain point it would not be noticeable. But the redwoods seemed impossibly tall. Something that huge - alive?

I found an overlook by taking the road to the higher elevations. A rare heat wave was blasting the region and it was here that I felt the beginning of its full force. Though it was morning, the temperature approached 90 degrees. Something, which I suspect may have been the trees, was releasing an incredibly strong odour into the air; slightly sweet like ripe fruit, and sharp like an evergreen. It was not quite nauseating, but it was overpowering.

Redwood National Park - Elk Prairie Campground

2009-07-28: I missed the campground by a few miles since my GPS directed me to the Kuchel Visitor Centre. I had no problem with that, as I was able to gather informational material and facts regarding the redwood forests. California has so much to do, whatever you might be interested in. I hoped preparation would make it all manageable. The visitor centre was built near a marshy lagoon on the coast. I planned to return the next day on the way to San Francisco. I went back to the campground, set up camp, and made certain that everything was bear resistant. Many animals were present there, obviously accustomed to the presence of humans. Deer and elk wandered through the meadows, and Steller's jays waited for food to be dropped or left alone. I spent the evening relaxing, keeping off of my still sore feet. The next day, I discovered a blackberry bush near my campsite, and I had recall the park rule specifically saying consumption of berries is permitted. The berries were about the size of a ping-pong ball. They were plentiful, and sweet.

Travel Notes: Beachside SRA » Redwood National Park, CA

2009-07-27: The fog from the previous day was partially gone, for a short time at least, and I was able to view the azure waters of the Pacific Ocean before leaving Beachside SRA. Unfortunately, it quickly returned once I was back on the road. My feet hadn't recovered yet, so driving was the only activity I could choose today. I took advantage of the few places where the fog was not present and where there was room to stop, and I took photos or just enjoyed the view.

Beachside State Recreaction Area, OR

2009-07-26: Along the coastal highway, the dense fog obscured any view of the ocean, though visibility on the ridge upon which the road sat was decent. I set up camp and limped to the showers as quickly as possible, thinking even a cold shower in a small stall would be a relief. Rather than that, it was warm and larger than many I'd seen elsewhere. The late afternoon sunlight diffused through the fog to create an evenly lit environment in which the passage of time was difficult to gauge.

I descended the sandy path to the beach, and there I gazed upon what appeared to be a place of infinite greyness, while somewhere, which seemed neither near or far, the ocean's waves ground against the shore, their crashing seemingly diminished by the grey clouds. This was the only audible sound. Shadowy silhouettes of other beach goers seemed to materialise out of the fog, only to disappear shortly afterwards.

Travel Notes: Somewhere east of Aberdeen, WA » Beachside SRA, OR

I left Washington a bit later than I had planned as I was quite exhausted from yesterday's grueling hike through that ancient forest. The distance I had travelled last night put me ahead of schedule, so I decided to set a course for Oregon's central coast - Beachside State Recreation area would be my destination. I was anticipating finally being able to get a proper view of the Pacific Ocean. I passed through Portland before going west, but I did not get much of an impression of the city. I might have stopped under different circumstances, but my feet were in no condition for a stroll though the city.