Kings Canyon / Sequoia National Parks - Part I

2009-07-31: My morning began in the warmth of the San Joaquin Valley. Still reeling from the epic beauty of Yosemite, I anticipated another day of similarly wondrous experiences. There would be the trees that were said to be the largest in the world, and a canyon that was deeper than the Grand Canyon.

I climbed out of the foothills in the early morning and reached the mountains' sequoia forests. Indeed, the enormity of the massive trees cannot be described - one has to look up and see it there to really understand it - it has to be felt. Because the sequoias, specifically the Generals Grant and Sherman Trees, were so huge, I could not get a proper photo of myself in front of one as I would have had only had ten seconds on my camera's timer to sprint back in front of it, hoping the shot came out as desired, all while other waited for their turn. Thus, it seemed sensible to simply use other people who were posing as a show of scale.

I followed Highway 180, stopping many times along the way, to somewhere named Road's End.

The sign marking it was as plain as one might expect, however, its name hinted at wonderful things hidden in the distance. I pondered this for a moment. Though the road had guided me when I was far from home, perhaps in abandoning it, there could be found a "higher tier" of freedom unknown as of yet. Some day, I would like to find out if that is so.

Travel Notes: Yosemite NP » Fresno, CA

I stopped in Fresno en route to Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks, as it was the largest city between the two locations, positioned almost perfectly at the intersection of the longitude and latitude, respectively, of the aforementioned parks. One thing Fresno is known for is its large Armenian population, and based on that I decided to find an ethnic restaurant. I found a place named, simply enough, George's Bar and Grill. They had all my favourite things; it was especially satisfying after a long day of non-stop activity. As was becoming the norm, a highway rest stop in the direction of Kings Canyon/Sequoia was to be my campsite for the night.

Yosemite National Park - Part IV

Yosemite National Park - Part III

Yosemite National Park - Part II

Yosemite National Park - Part I

2009-07-30: This place is absolutely stunning. I will let the photos illustrate that fact. High mountain meadows, cascading waterfalls, cool rivers of the purest water, and azure skies all come perfectly together to form not just a beautiful vista, but an entire experience. I came in on State Highway 140, along roads at elevations climbing to heights of over 9000 feet, and went all the way to Mono Lake. As with many other parks, camping was unavailable. I reluctantly left and headed for Fresno.

San Francisco - Part II

2009-07-29: Across the street from the Tea Garden is the Botanical Garden, which is also a pleasant place to be. Some of the plants were from exotic climates and were unlike any I was familiar with. Wild birds, including quail and hummingbirds, could be found throughout. One small patch of wildflowers concealed dozens of small, brightly coloured birds, all of which took flight as I approached.

It was nice to take a casual pace through the gardens, rather than fighting extreme terrain and conditions, at least for a couple of hours.

I then drove west, into the Central Valley, to the town of Manteca, where my parents had lived, and got a "trophy photo" of myself in front of their old residence. Here the weather was hot and dry. Looking for a place to camp, I thought that McConnell State Recreation Area sounded good. It is on the banks of the Merced River, with showers, which I desperately needed. I took a quick drive through Stockton (I was born there) and got back on the south-bound highway.
Once I had gotten off the interstate, the rural road was lined by orchards and poor farmer's shanties. Gang graffiti tags were found everywhere along the concrete irrigation canals. The park's office was practically boarded up and that the entry gate was broken off. The pay box was gone. The dumpsters were overflowing with trash. The small park was filled with what seemed to be poor Hispanic families. And none of these things were a problem for me.

But I looked around and saw that this was a rough crowd. It would only take one person to cause trouble for the "outsider" that I was. I thought I'd take a shower and then decide what to do. The shower had a lot of dirt on the floor...not mud, but bits of dirt and sand. I put in a dollar into the machine and it didn't work. But the handicapped spigot, about 3 feet off the floor, did work. And that's how I took my shower. I left the park at dusk. The endless rows of small trees and their shadows looked very strange in the dwindling light. I found a highway rest stop where CalTrans provided wireless internet access, and used it to catch up on some things. In the news, I read something about budget cuts for hundreds of California parks.

San Francisco - Part I

2009-07-29: As is to be expected in San Francisco, the day began with a cool fog and grey skies. Since I took a liking to that city, I wanted to do something there before returning to the wild lands. A nice compromise then, would be San Francisco's Japanese Tea Garden. This was a place where every single thing has had its aesthetic qualities considered, and was then positioned accordingly.

Travel Notes: Kuchel Visitor Centre » San Francisco, CA

2009-07-28: The coastal highway was tempting, but I decided to go inland after seeing a sign that pointed to the "Avenue of the Giants". This highway is a high-speed, winding road built right through the redwood forest. The trees are literally right next to the road. Driving quickly through a forest of giant trees was an odd sensation; I have always been used to taking the forest paths by foot.

 

Traffic through here was surprisingly heavy. I wanted to get some photos but there were few places to pull over, and those were easily missed or were already full of vehicles. Here is one from someone else.

Outside of the forests, the terrain was notably home to many dry riverbeds (such as that of the Eel River) and sun-drenched hillside vineyards. The temperature continued to climb as I made my way through the hills, toward San Francisco. By early afternoon, I was seeing a temperature of 105°F, though it would fall as I approached the bay.

 

I made it to the outer San Francisco area at the absolute height of rush hour. Navigating was chaotic and confusing, and I accidentally ended up in Oakland after crossing a large bridge (possibly the Richmond - San Rafael Bridge). So I had to go back, and I spent quite a long time trying to find a recreation area by its address in the hills around Sausalito and Mill Valley. I was going in circles for some time, and since evening was approaching, I headed for San Francisco, in particular Fisherman's Wharf. My parents had recommended a restaurant there, called Scoma's, and I wished to stop in. There I had the freshest seafood I had ever enjoyed. When I got back onto the street, the shops were beginning to close up. I took some photos and took a drive around the city.

San Francisco does not feel like any city I have ever been to. Although it is big, it does not have the big city feel to it. I never felt the need to be particularly cautious or aware of those around me. The streets were busy, but seemingly only with happy people enjoying themselves, not scowling businesspeople or random shady characters. It seems very welcoming.

I was shocked at the sorts of slopes that houses and roads had been built on. The grade was extreme in places. I was thinking I would be nervous to drive on them in rain or snow.

I knew that unfortunately staying anywhere in SF would not be economical, so I crossed the Bay Bridge and headed out about 20 miles, searching for a rest stop in a decent area, but I couldn't find anything. I believe I turned around at Castro Valley, on Foothill Road. I found a nice visitor's centre parking area on the south side of the Golden Gate Bridge, and there I spent the night.

Kuchel Visitor Centre

2009-07-28: A few short minutes of driving led me back to the Kuchel Visitor Centre, where I took a brief stroll on the boardwalk around the coastal marsh.

Redwood National Park - Lady Bird Johnson Grove - Part II

Redwood National Park - Lady Bird Johnson Grove - Part I

2009-07-28: I quickly broke camp and hurried through the heights to Lady Bird Johnson Grove, high above the foggy coastal lowlands. The trail was an easy one mile loop, which nonetheless allowed me to experience the remarkable beauty of the coastal redwood forests. I arrived early enough to enjoy the tranquillity and solitude not possible with the presence of the tourist types. Fog still lingered in the darker places the sunlight had yet to reach.

Admittedly, I was not certain that I would be much impressed by the trees here, as Olympic National Forest would be hard to outdo. I thought, surely the trees could not be that much bigger - after a certain point it would not be noticeable. But the redwoods seemed impossibly tall. Something that huge - alive?

I found an overlook by taking the road to the higher elevations. A rare heat wave was blasting the region and it was here that I felt the beginning of its full force. Though it was morning, the temperature approached 90 degrees. Something, which I suspect may have been the trees, was releasing an incredibly strong odour into the air; slightly sweet like ripe fruit, and sharp like an evergreen. It was not quite nauseating, but it was overpowering.

Redwood National Park - Elk Prairie Campground

2009-07-28: I missed the campground by a few miles since my GPS directed me to the Kuchel Visitor Centre. I had no problem with that, as I was able to gather informational material and facts regarding the redwood forests. California has so much to do, whatever you might be interested in. I hoped preparation would make it all manageable. The visitor centre was built near a marshy lagoon on the coast. I planned to return the next day on the way to San Francisco. I went back to the campground, set up camp, and made certain that everything was bear resistant. Many animals were present there, obviously accustomed to the presence of humans. Deer and elk wandered through the meadows, and Steller's jays waited for food to be dropped or left alone. I spent the evening relaxing, keeping off of my still sore feet. The next day, I discovered a blackberry bush near my campsite, and I had recall the park rule specifically saying consumption of berries is permitted. The berries were about the size of a ping-pong ball. They were plentiful, and sweet.

Travel Notes: Beachside SRA » Redwood National Park, CA

2009-07-27: The fog from the previous day was partially gone, for a short time at least, and I was able to view the azure waters of the Pacific Ocean before leaving Beachside SRA. Unfortunately, it quickly returned once I was back on the road. My feet hadn't recovered yet, so driving was the only activity I could choose today. I took advantage of the few places where the fog was not present and where there was room to stop, and I took photos or just enjoyed the view.